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Words by Flora Macdonald Johnston
Some of my first fashion-related memories are from my mom’s magazines. We had several OTTO catalogues and VOGUE at home (which was a luxury in post-soviet Georgia) and I used to look through them all the time, mixing and matching which earring would go better with which skirt and so on and so forth. Ultimately, I was always interested in the aesthetics of design and expressing myself through fashion.
Since then, I have never considered any other profession and made a decision that my passion and source of income would always be one. This was the very first step of my design career. Later, I decided to start my own brand – KEBURIA.
I have no academic experience in the fashion industry, I am an entirely self-taught designer. My very first fashion experience was participating in the Tbilisi Fashion Week newcomer contest, which I won with my debut capsule collection. This is where it all began. After that, I gained practical experience, which was a long messy road as back then Georgian fashion basically did not exist. I have learnt a lot, often through my own mistakes. I think the fact that I didn’t have any formal education in the industry gave me the freedom and audacity to play around more without considering limitations.
Over the years, KEBURIA has established a recognisable DNA with its signature tailoring, sculptural shapes, and clean lines. It’s playful and modern, yet classic.
It is quite difficult to achieve a consistent identity in the modern fashion industry, as it needs diligent hard work and caution – it should be constantly updated. Regarding 'drama', I remember being a drama queen back when I was younger with fewer responsibilities. I guess I was trying to entertain myself!
It’s a continuous process of experimenting and mixing different things. I think, in the end, it’s something that creates more desire and ambiguity.
I love to go to the atelier earlier than my employees, more so when I’m working on a new collection. I need some alone time to drink 100 cups of coffee in peace and then the chaos starts. I work on new samples and go through the production points of the previous collection. Usually, I also have to go and check up on the order production at a second location. So, sometimes I spend a big part of my day in traffic and might as well go crazy.
As soon as I finish a collection, I start thinking about the next one. The process can last between three to four months, but it's always the final weeks that are the most crucial and when everything comes together.
To be honest, my brand has been developing for many seasons as I have gained skills and experience. I do not want KEBURIA to be limited to a particular moment in time and associated with just trendy pieces. I enjoy revisiting old silhouettes and constructing them in a new way. This is why I usually get inspired by a vintage wardrobe and harmonise it with modern gender-free femininity and self-expression. It can be perceived by any character.
For the SS22 collection, I was inspired by uniforms and people of different occupations. These people can exist in totally different places but still cross each other daily in the streets – they might even be stilt walkers with oversized hats towering over all of us.
I really love many pieces from SS22 – everything that made it through to the final cut, in fact. Now, it’s up to the customers to decide.
I don’t really see one particular way of wearing my clothes, and would rather see lots of different types of women wearing KEBURIA in different ways. When women wear my creations, I hope it leaves an impact on their character. I hope it also makes them feel more comfortable and confident.
Primarily I want to keep the brand growing and to employ more people. For the immediate future, working on the next collection.
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