In case it wasn’t already abundantly clear, we really like fashion here at KOIBIRD. Not only is it our bread and butter, it is our BABY – and we mean that with the utmost seriousness. While we mostly deal in the thrill of the new, what we also adore is vintage fashion. After all, where would today’s designers be without clothes of bygone eras for inspiration? However, there are distinct differences between shopping and shopping for vintage that can’t be ignored and plenty of concurring to overcome. So, to make it easy we’ve composed our very own vintage buying guide from how to correctly identify a genuine designer gem to discovering that one-off item online.

• Since vintage clothes already exist, and therefore don’t require an array of resources and energy to be created, they are among one of the most sustainable ways you can dress. Keep this in mind when anyone tries to pooh-pooh your pursuit of the good stuff (because it is a pursuit, but a worthwhile one).

• Natural fabrics are the key to keeping things contemporary – the man-made stuff can sometimes scream fancy dress, which is exactly what you don’t want.Yet, if there’s a fabric with a print you love, embrace it and repurpose it – you’ll probably never see it again otherwise.

• Seamstresses and tailors can bring new hope to anything apparently unsalvageable or ill-fitting. In fact, we’d recommend a visit to one just to ensure the clothes you do have look the best they can before buying anything new.Because a lot of vintage pieces tend to be very affordable, there’s less at stake in terms of upcycling. This is why you should absolutely hack at a man’s shirt to crop it (hello Miu Miu) or chop the straps of a dress so they can be tied as bows (or something else weird and wonderful).

• Vintage denim is great and easy to customise, but watch out for an excessive amount of wear in the crotch area – you don’t want those jeans or shorts to split in public. We welcome wear in the knees, though: there’s nothing cooler than denim that’s been distressed naturally over time.

• Familiarise yourself with each vintage era to get a grasp of what vintage clothes are actually to your taste, then you’ll be less overwhelmed by everything when you shop. If you like things demure and feminine, for example, it’s worth looking for 50s pieces. For peasant dresses and extravagant collars, the 70s is your era. Fun mini dresses were at their prime in the 60s. The 80s were excellent for general glitz and bold colour. The 90s and Y2K are your friends if you favour cheeky slogan t-shirts, low-rise jeans and going out out tops. This is in no way an exhaustive list, but it’s a start.

Scruff Studio is more of an archive than a vintage shop, but with all pieces available to rent it’s the perfect solution for any attention-seeking event. If you’re looking for something to keep forever, keep an eye on their Instagram stories for beautiful bargains. 

With a veritable online presence as well as stores (the Covent Garden flagship is our fashion director’s favourite), Vintage Threads is our go-to for retro sportswear – we don’t actually do sports in it, though.

Notting Hill is notorious for excellent vintage, but if you’re particularly attracted to designer stuff of the Y2K variety (and a whole host of other designer goods), head here for a browse. You can also exchange pieces of your own for cash – or vouchers of higher value.

With several outposts across the city (and beyond), Beyond Retro is often a young Londoner’s first foray into the wonderful world of vintage fashion. And what better place to whet your appetite for the stuff? Each store is larger than your average vintage shop, which means more rummaging – but that’s all part of the fun.

KOIBIRD is no stranger to Magpie Vintage. We recently started selling their handmade upcycled pieces. But, before founder Alice Lockspeiser had even dreamt of those, Magpie Vintage was about vintage clothing in its natural state – and it still is! If you have a particular penchant for 60s and 70s pieces, you’d be a fool not to make the pilgrimage to Camden Passage.