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eVERy Day Is tAcO TUesDAy

Our food columnist takes us on a taco tour of Los Angeles

Words by Iona Judd

With extreme landscapes from deserts to rainforests, vivid colours, bright characters and an abundance of tacos (ranging from tacos de canasta, birria tacos and tlayudas – all washed down with an agua fresca or jarritos), I have been dreaming of going to Mexico for years. While I haven’t quite made it there yet, I did go somewhere recently which can at least rival it in the taco stakes: Los Angeles.

LA has a large Mexican population and there are well over 4,000 taco trucks, or loncheras, spread throughout the city. At each, the range of tacos served are as varied as the landscapes they come from. Regions are famed for certain spice mixes or cuts of meat, for their methods of cooking or their salsas, and these regional offerings are almost all represented, including the Taco Arabe – thought to be the first taco to ever exist.

Eating a taco is – in my mind – an almost transcendent experience. One that hits so many flavour profiles and texture sensations. The yielding, unctuous meat that has been simmered for hours, contrasted by the cold yet brilliant heat of a salsa and the tangy flash of diced onion. You are thankful for the refreshing crispness of sliced radishes on the side, whilst simultaneously desperate for another hit.

"eATiNg a TAcO iS – In mY MiND – aN ALmOSt TRaNsCENDeNT EXpERiEnCe."

Truthfully though, I think my favourite element is the warm corn tortilla, it’s subtly sweet nuttiness acting as the foundation of the taco. The tortillas are made from masa, which in turn is considered the foundation of Mexican cooking. Created by a process called Nixtamal, dried corn is treated with an alkaline solution of slaked lime. After a night of soaking, the corn is ground – often by hand - and transformed into masa. This process is the embodiment of tradition and heritage, and whilst the recipes for the taco fillings themselves have changed over the generations, this hasn’t. 

So anyway, back to the loncheras of LA. Clearly, we barely scratched the surface - of either trucks or varieties of taco. I am already plotting a trip back but until then, I’ve listed some of my favourite discoveries.

LEO’s TACOS

Lauded as one of the best Al Pastor tacos the city has to offer, there seemed no better way to begin our holiday. We were met with a glistening trompo, or vertical spit, roasting pork marinated in achiote. With a flick of the wrist pineapple was flying through the air and expertly caught atop a stuffed tortilla – a trick of Pastor masters. We were not disappointed.

TACOS Y BIRRIA LA UNICA

Unsurprisingly, Birria is the thing here. We went for the goat. Whilst the taco itself felt a little on the bland side, the consommé made from the cooking juices was possibly one of the most delicious things I’ve ever drunk. If it hadn’t been for the roasting midday heat – and the 4 other stops on the list for the afternoon – I would have had the whole cup. Rich and fatty, there was such an extraordinary depth of flavour to this unassuming brown soup.

TACOS Y BIRRIA LA UNICA

Unsurprisingly, Birria is the thing here. We went for the goat. Whilst the taco itself felt a little on the bland side, the consommé made from the cooking juices was possibly one of the most delicious things I’ve ever drunk. If it hadn’t been for the roasting midday heat – and the 4 other stops on the list for the afternoon – I would have had the whole cup. Rich and fatty, there was such an extraordinary depth of flavour to this unassuming brown soup.

TACOS EL COMPITA

At this point I had been put on order rationing. Dear reader, I did not let that stop me.

El Compita deals in all the usual suspects but is best known for its Barbacoa Dorados. Barbacoa is the Mexican word for barbeque and here the meat is slow cooked in a pit to give it a smoky flavour. Dorados are hard shell tacos which have been stuffed with filling and quickly fried giving a contrast of crispy and soft. We ordered both barbacoa dorados and soft tacos and I think they might have been the stand out tacos of the trip. The richness of the meat paired with the zinginess of the salsas and the crunch of the shell… Someone next to me had ordered 16, and I am sure they could feel my envy.

"iT wAS aS I fInIsHeD THiS qUeSADiLLa THaT I ReALiSeD HOw mUcH Of My wARdROBe HaS eXpAnDABLe wAiSTs..."

LOS ORIGIONALES TACOS ARABES DE PUEBLA

This truck is the only spot serving Tacos Arabes which are inspired by Arab immigrants to Mexico in the early 20TH C. Not dissimilar to the shawarma, the pork here is spiced with warm earthy notes rather than bright citrus and chilli flavours. Served on a pan arabe – a flour tortilla – with chipotle sauce, cheese and avo, it’s completely different to the rest of the tacos we tasted. Whilst this was good, the stand out item was a huitaloche quesadilla served in a blue corn tortilla. Huitaloche is a weird corn fungus which sounds like it should be revolting but is deliciously nutty and even better when enveloped by oozy cheese.

It was as I finished this quesadilla that I realised how much of my wardrobe has expandable waists... not something I ever thought I’d be thankful for.

LOS ORIGIONALES TACOS ARABES DE PUEBLA

This truck is the only spot serving Tacos Arabes which are inspired by Arab immigrants to Mexico in the early 20TH C. Not dissimilar to the shawarma, the pork here is spiced with warm earthy notes rather than bright citrus and chilli flavours. Served on a pan arabe – a flour tortilla – with chipotle sauce, cheese and avo, it’s completely different to the rest of the tacos we tasted. Whilst this was good, the stand out item was a huitaloche quesadilla served in a blue corn tortilla. Huitaloche is a weird corn fungus which sounds like it should be revolting but is deliciously nutty and even better when enveloped by oozy cheese.

It was as I finished this quesadilla that I realised how much of my wardrobe has expandable waists... not something I ever thought I’d be thankful for.

TEDDY’S RED TACOS

Kings of the quesabirria. A taco dipped in cooking fat, filled with cheese and meat and then fried to give it a crunchy outer shell. The meat is so juicy you barely need the consommé but before you know it, you’ve submerged your taco again and have red juices running down your arm. Make sure you go hungry to this one.

GUILLEN’S MARISCOS EL GUERO TACO TRUCK AND SEAFOOD

Our last stop before we headed to the airport gave us a welcome flavour change. We’d been on the hunt for fish tacos all week but somehow, they had evaded us. It was worth the wait for the ceviche de pescao tostada – a fish ceviche tostada. So much zingy fresh lime had ‘cooked’ the fish, complimented by little bombs of tomato and of course, the prerequisite salsa. It was almost like it cleansed the palette of the 20 odd tacos we had eaten throughout the week.

About a stone heavier and a good way to morphing into a taco myself, our trip was over. Unsurprisingly perhaps, I am having major taco withdrawal. So, if like me, you need a taco fix a little closer to home, I suggest you head to La Chingada (Surrey Quays) or Sonora Tacos (Broadway Market). See you there.

GUILLEN’S MARISCOS EL GUERO TACO TRUCK AND SEAFOOD

Our last stop before we headed to the airport gave us a welcome flavour change. We’d been on the hunt for fish tacos all week but somehow, they had evaded us. It was worth the wait for the ceviche de pescao tostada – a fish ceviche tostada. So much zingy fresh lime had ‘cooked’ the fish, complimented by little bombs of tomato and of course, the prerequisite salsa. It was almost like it cleansed the palette of the 20 odd tacos we had eaten throughout the week.

About a stone heavier and a good way to morphing into a taco myself, our trip was over. Unsurprisingly perhaps, I am having major taco withdrawal. So, if like me, you need a taco fix a little closer to home, I suggest you head to La Chingada (Surrey Quays) or Sonora Tacos (Broadway Market). See you there.

RETURN TO THE BIRDWORD

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